Tag Archives: expert perspective

How to Wear Makeup in the Winter

Jenny-Patinkin

For as fun as I think makeup is to apply and experiment with, I realize that for a lot of women, it’s a daunting routine that is sometimes anything but intuitive. Allow me to introduce you to the “lazy perfection makeup method,” coined by one of the best makeup artists in the biz, Jenny Patinkin, who also calls Chicago home.  She’s built a reputation for creating simple and natural looks that are easy to do yourself. Jenny’s approach is very “real girl” and she’s all about breaking down the notion that in order to be flattering, makeup needs to be complicated or full of steps. She even designed a lazy perfection-inspired line of makeup brushes (coming soon to Space NK!) that practically apply makeup for you.

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I’ve never used a brush in so many ways as the All-Over Face (third from left)

I asked Jenny to share some of her lazy perfection tips for winter beauty. This week has been a painful reminder of the havoc frigid cold can wreak. My eyes tear up the second I walk outdoors and pale becomes me. You feel me?

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My eyes are like a leaky faucet when I’m outside in the cold. What should I be doing?
Eye shadow primer is an essential (I like Nars the best) and of course water-resistant eyeliner.  For mascara, I’m actually not a big fan of waterproof formulas – they can dry out your lashes and make them brittle.  I prefer a water resistant “tube” formula mascara like the ones from Kevyn Aucoin or Trish McEvoy because they stay on until you take them off, even if you have a few tears.  And I would recommend a creamy concealer under the eyes that can be re-blended or blotted back into place after having tears run over it. Opaque concealers aren’t as malleable and are tougher to touch up.

How do you prevent lips from drying out?
Aquaphor!  It’s a savior!  I like to apply it to clients (and myself) before I put on any makeup so that by the time I’m ready to apply lipstick as the last step, lips are smooth and moisturized.  Honestly, there are plenty of times in the winter when I personally skip lipstick altogether and just apply Aquaphor.  I keep tubes of it everywhere – in my pockets, purses, my car and beside my bed, and I sleep with it on my lips every night.

Statement lip: yes or no?
As long as your lips are smooth and un-chapped, then why not!  A satin finish is more comfortable to wear than drier matte or demi-matte finishes, though, and a little bit of sheen looks pretty against flat winter fabrics like wool or cashmere.  It’s also helpful to warm up your complexion with a little bronzer so that the contrast between bold lips and pale skin doesn’t look harsh or too pronounced.

What is the trick to getting glowing skin, despite the dry air?
Look for products that have words like luminous, radiant, illuminating in the name or description.  This generally means that there is micro-shimmer mixed in which will help any available light bounce off of your skin, adding dimension and glow.  I like Burberry Beauty Fresh Glow Luminous Fluid Base mixed in with moisturizer or foundation, or Becca Shimmering Skin Perfector dotted along the tops of the cheeks.

Tips to wearing bronzer in the winter?
If your skin gets sallow in the winter – tinged with yellow, green or grey tones – then bronzer will be your best friend. I like to keep it mostly on the top part of the face – along the cheekbones, up the temples and lightly across the forehead with maybe a dash on the nose.  By keeping the center of your face (orbital bones, chin/neck) in your natural tone, you’ll look “warm” without looking “tan.”

How do you prevent the cakey look?
I tend to avoid powder products in the winter, or use them very sparingly.  Something like Jouer Essential Matte Touch is almost like a putty texture that you can apply under your makeup or on top of it as a touch up over the course of the day – love that stuff.  I sometimes also send clients out with sponges in their evening bags to blot away shine instead of covering it with powder.

What Space NK’s Nicky Kinniard Packs for a Trip to Chicago

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Last month, Space NK founder Nicky Kinniard made her way through Chicago for an event at her newest location in Bloomingdale’s Michigan Ave. I’m likening the personal tour she gave me on the eve of said event to what I imagine a music lesson from Beethoven would be. Talk about learning from the master herself! This year marks 20 since Nicky opened the first Space NK in London. The personally curated shops you see cropping up constantly? Yeah, Nicky helped to pioneer that concept.  She filled her first Space NK with the things she loved and that continues today, in more than 20 locations. During our time touring the shop floor, we gabbed face oils (she loves them), the amazing-ness that is Oribe Dry Texturizing Spray (she avoids washing her hair, too!) and the most bad ass foundation brush ever. Also, according to Nicky, the Clarisonic for your feet does work, and quite well apparently. Consider my curiosity at its max on that one.

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While I don’t normally let myself fall in love with an $80 brush, I couldn’t help but obsess over this one by Kevyn Aucoin. According to Nicky, there’s nothing it can’t do and it applies cream products flawlessly. She informed me she’s loving By Terry’s new serum foundation.

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Nicky also raved to me about the matte shadows from Kevyn Aucoin, which come in the most flattering range of neutrals. They look and feel like suede!

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I made sure to get the 411 on the must-haves Nicky packed for her trip to Chicago. No surprise, she toted along her favorite foundation and a variety of Kevyn Aucoin mattes but she spoke to me primarily on skincare. She can’t travel without her Eve Lom cleanser and layers on the Colbert MD Illumino Face Oil day and night. Many of the products on Space NK shelves are limited in distribution and Nicky is always introducing new lines. She let me in on another of her skincare secrets – the Bakel P-lipic serum which is packed with active ingredients and hyaluronic acid to fill in lines and plump up skin.

For my fellow 312 beauties, have you shopped our very own Space NK, yet?

Illamasqua, not about the “it” but you

Illamasqua-Blush

It’s not every day I get to have face time with the founder of the fastest growing makeup brand in history, so when I do, I make the most of the experience. Julian Kynaston, founder of Illamasqua, made a stop in Chicago recently to celebrate the brand’s expansion in to U.S. Bloomingdale’s stores. He is a vision at what must be nearly 7 feet tall and was rocking a fierce black smoky eye when he greeted me at Bloomies. Julian spoke at length to me about self-expression, the core of the brand. He built a brand that celebrates the unique. It’s not about looking like everyone, rather, about looking like you. His passion and sincerity on this topic especially came through when he described his work with The Sophie Lancaster Foundation, a charity that Illamasqua has supported for years.

Perhaps the most impressive point of differentiation for Illamasqua is that they’ve risen to cult beauty status without traditional advertising. Rather, the brand relies completely on the power of social media.

For those (like me) who make a sport of studying seasonal makeup releases, you’ll notice that Illamasqua’s are never dictated by the “it” color of the season. Take Sacred Hour, Illamasqua’s fall collection—which, p.s., happens to include the most perfect rosy pink velvet blush. As Julian tells it, the collection is about releasing your inner warrior and finding courage. What that means in terms of color is up to YOU.

Illamasqua-Fall

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My gateway into the world of Illamasqua was a nail polish called Bacterium. It was everything during my greige phase. From there, it just took one bright pink cheek color (who can resist those black compacts?) for me to realize that there was so much more to this brand. And while they may have a flair for theatrics and drama, there are just as many neutrals and classic shades within the line. Case in point: this taupe-filled eyeshadow palette from Sacred Hour. It’s beyond.

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Skin Base Lift concealer and White Light brightener

After chatting with Julian and oogling the Reflection Palette, one of the artists gave me a little refresh with new Skin Base Lift. It’s a brightening concealer that has warm peach tones to help cover any hint of darkness. Shade 1 made me look like a brand new girl. And, when I thought his work was done, he used a tiny angled brush to trace the White Light right above and below my brow bones. After he blended, it was like WOAH. No shimmer or obvious highlight, just better skin.

I believe there’s just a handful of Bloomingdale’s stores in the U.S. with a full Illamasqua counter at this stage, so let’s consider ourselves lucky in Chicago. There’s something to be said for getting the full on counter experience. Especially since our Bloomie’s just got a major beauty floor upgrade.

butter LONDON Launches Makeup Collection

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Rockover is the new makeover, according to butter LONDON. We know them for their always on-trend nail polish shades and for expanding our vocabulary with cheeky British slang, and now the brand is making waves with its first full-blown makeup collection. The Bespoke Colour Collection is outside the box in the best way. Think lime green nails for fall with eyeliner and mascara to match. But don’t fret. The seemingly wild colors are also balanced with rich blues and deep browns and the perfect sheer lip neutral colors that go with everything.

I chatted with butter LONDON’s Global Colour Ambassador Katie Hughes this week while she wraps up the ‘Rock Over’ tour that’s stopped at dozens of Ulta stores across the country. It’s fitting that Chicago is her final stop, as she has family here and loves to visit as much as she can. Note: she once went to Hot Doug’s three consecutive days. This Brit loves her some Chi-town!

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Your title of Global Colour Ambassador just got even broader. There’s SO MUCH color in this collection! 

Butter London is known for best nail lacquer colors and we wanted to create a makeup collection that spoke to that and was also on trend. All of these colors are going backstage with me this [Fashion Week] season.  I think that people are just starting to experiment with color. Think even a few years ago – going into the board room at work, colored nail polish was frowned upon. Now it’s everywhere. Glitter, bright colors, white nails.  You can be more adventurous with your eyes.  People are embracing blues and purples. I think they are the new neutrals.

What are some of your favorite Bespoke looks?

The pencil in the green story – Jaded Jack – is one of one of my favorites and looks amazing in the tear duct area. Everything in the line has a multiple use. All of the mascaras can be used in the hair and brows. Try the brown mascara on the brows. Just take the entire product off with a tissue and skim it over the brows without touching the skin. I use the CHEEKY on the lips, LIPPY balm on the cheeks and the Pistol Pink WINK eye pencil on the lips. Alabaster Gaze Cream Shadow works as a highlighter. Even the mascaras double as eyeliners. Apply the Union Jack Black pencil and let it be lived in for a moment and then take a really thin eyeliner brush and layer the mascara over it. I wore the pink the other day and got so many compliments. When people look at you when you wear color, they do a double take. It’s not crazy nuts just a hint. I like to be understated, use one color at a time.

What do you mean by ‘lived in’?

My personal makeup style on set is makeup that looks like its effortless. Creased shadow doesn’t bother me. It looks lived in and that’s what I want to see. I want character not retouched makeup. If you get your base right and pick the right foundation that’s buffed and beautiful, whatever goes for the rest of the face. I work with smudges and purposefully smush my mascara into the bottom lash because I like that slightly edgy look.

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The WINK cream shadows are softer colors – I’m especially loving that gold!  How do you like to use these?

They are designed to be a wash of color. If you want to build, layer them together rather than putting on more. The cream shadow and liner are like best friends – they work even better together. Apply a dab of the cream shadow to the lid and take the liner across the lashline and blend right away with your ring finger. I always go back in at the lash to get more depth with the pencil.

Last year, during the Erdem show at London Fashion Week, I did the nails with a color called Hen Party which looks like organza and NARS did really neutral makeup with a matte saturation of lilac in the inner corners. That pop of purple looked so gorgeous and I’ve been using these that way. Be very slapdash about it. Go back to basics and don’t think so hard.

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Can we expect more makeup from butter LONDON?

Yes, we’re going to grow and grow. We’re always going to be a nail care and color brand but we’ll now launch makeup with our lacquers. Big colors with themes and we’ll start growing into collections that are, for example, 12 shades of the same product so we’re building our portfolio.

Chicago ladies, don’t miss the opp to meet Katie yourself and get a “Rock Over!” She’ll be introducing the Bespoke Colour Cosmetics at two ULTA stores today. From 11-2 p.m. at the State Street location in the Loop and from 3-6 p.m. at the 2754 North Clybourn ULTA location.